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What the Quality Slider Really Does, and How to Set It

By Marco Caturano 8 min readPublished 24 February 2026 · Updated 19 August 2026

Every image tool gives you a quality slider from 1 to 100 and almost none of them explain what it does. People assume 100 means perfect and 50 means half as good. Neither is true. Understanding roughly what the number controls turns compression from guesswork into a decision you can defend.

The number is a coarseness setting, not a percentage

Lossy encoders break an image into small blocks and describe each block as a combination of frequency patterns: broad areas of flat colour are low frequency, fine texture and sharp edges are high frequency. Human vision is far more sensitive to the low frequencies. Compression exploits this by storing the low-frequency information precisely and the high-frequency information roughly.

The quality slider scales how roughly. A lower value means the encoder rounds more aggressively, so more of those fine-detail values collapse to zero and disappear from the file entirely. It is a dial on how much detail gets thrown away, not a percentage of anything you can measure.

This is why the same setting behaves so differently on different pictures. A portrait against a plain wall is mostly low frequency, so aggressive rounding barely shows. A photograph of gravel, foliage or a crowd is almost entirely high frequency, so the same setting visibly destroys it.

Where the useful range actually sits

SettingWhat you getReasonable use
95 to 100Enormous files, no visible gain over 90Essentially never worth it for delivery
85 to 95Visually indistinguishable from the original on close inspectionPhotography portfolios, print-adjacent work, product detail shots
70 to 85Very hard to fault without comparing side by sideThe default range for almost all web imagery
55 to 70Artefacts visible if you look for them, often acceptableThumbnails, background images, bandwidth-constrained delivery
Below 55Obvious blocking and colour bandingOnly for deliberate effect or extreme constraints
Approximate behaviour for typical photographic content. Treat these as starting points, not rules.

The curve is steeply non-linear. Dropping from 100 to 90 often halves the file size with no perceptible change. Dropping from 90 to 80 might save another 30 percent. Going from 50 to 40 saves very little and costs a lot. Nearly all of the available saving lives between 100 and about 75, which is why that is where you should be working.

A repeatable method for finding the right setting

  1. Pick three representative images from the set: your smoothest one, your most detailed one, and something typical. Do not calibrate on a single image.
  2. Export the detailed one at 90, 80, 70 and 60.
  3. View each at the size it will actually be displayed. Judging a 4000 pixel export at 100 percent zoom on a desktop monitor tells you nothing about how it looks at 600 pixels wide in a page.
  4. Find the lowest setting where you cannot tell the difference from the 90, then add five as a safety margin.
  5. Check that setting against the smooth image, which will tolerate more, and apply the result to the whole batch.
Resize before you compress, never after. Shrinking a 4000 pixel image to 800 pixels discards three quarters of the pixels, which does more for file size than any quality setting, and the downscaling itself averages away compression artefacts.

Recognising the three artefacts that matter

Blocking

Flat areas break into visible squares, usually eight by eight pixels. Most obvious in skies, shadows and out-of-focus backgrounds. It means the encoder no longer has enough precision to describe a smooth gradient, and it is the clearest signal that you have gone too low.

Ringing

A faint echo or halo alongside hard edges, particularly text over a flat background. This is the high-frequency information being approximated badly. It is the reason screenshots and diagrams should not be saved as lossy files at all.

Colour bleeding

Saturated colours, especially reds, smear past their boundaries. Encoders store colour information at lower resolution than brightness because the eye is less sensitive to it. At low quality settings this becomes visible on fine coloured detail.

Compressing a folder without ruining half of it

Batch processing applies one decision to many images, so the decision has to survive the worst case in the set, not the average one.

  • Separate photographs from graphics before you start. They need different formats, not just different settings, and mixing them guarantees one group comes out wrong.
  • Sort by content, not by folder. Product shots on white, outdoor photography and screenshots each want their own pass.
  • Set the quality for the most detailed image in each group. The smooth ones will simply come out smaller than they needed to be, which costs you nothing.
  • Spot-check the output, and specifically check the largest and smallest results. Outliers at either end usually indicate an image that belonged in a different group.
  • Keep the originals. Compression is irreversible, and the setting that looked fine today will look wrong when the design changes and images get displayed twice as large.

Common questions

Can I recover quality by re-saving at a higher setting?

No. The discarded information is gone from the file. Re-encoding at 95 simply stores the damaged version more precisely, producing a larger file that looks exactly as bad. Always go back to the original.

Is there a quality setting that is truly lossless?

Not in JPEG, where even the maximum setting still quantises. WebP and AVIF do have genuine lossless modes, which are a separate switch rather than a point on the quality scale. If you need identical pixels, choose lossless explicitly.

Why does my 100 quality export look worse than the original?

Two likely causes. Either the source was not actually lossless, so you are seeing artefacts that were already there, or a colour profile was dropped during export and the colours are being interpreted differently. Check the profile before blaming the encoder.

Should I compress images that are already small?

Below roughly 20 KB the overhead of the format itself starts to dominate and further compression saves very little while risking visible damage. Spend the effort on the large files where the bytes actually are.

Try it yourself

The settings described above are all adjustable in the tool. Files stay on your device; nothing is uploaded to a server.

Open the image converter

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